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I think the brass rings will look pretty cool.
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There is no other way to access the drivers or crossover other than through the driver cutouts. Unless I pried them out and damaged the cabinets. Then, there would be no way to remove the drivers in the future. I could have just wrapped the drivers, then glued them to the recessed area of the driver cutouts. The brass rings have already been ordered. This will secure the drivers to the cabinets and all you will see is the cone area of the drivers covered in fabric. Then, insert the mounting screws through the brass rings, then through the driver's mounting holes. Then, I just need to drill holes in the brass rings matching the mounting holes in the drivers. So what I came up with is brass rings that will cover the driver's mounting plates and extend to the edge of the raised bezels on the cabinets. If I wrap the drivers, there is no way to screw them to the cabinet because the mounting holes would also be covered. So, I needed to come up with an idea that would let me wrap the drivers and still be able to mount then to the cabinet. I will leave the tweeters exposed though. So, I decided to just wrap each driver's face with black grill cloth. There will be no grill cover on the cabinets, but I really don't want the drivers exposed either. today, but I had an idea that will delay things a little. I planned on installing the drivers, etc. I guess they've got to get ugly before they get beautiful. The satin shouldn't magnify any imperfections that I couldn't see, like the gloss paint did. If I like it, that's what I'll paint the cabinets with. I'm going to try BEHR Marquee satin Espresso Bean enamel on a test board. But after looking at my prototype for a few days I've decided not to go that route. I originally was going for a gloss black paint. I may be doing it all wrong, but it's working for me. They just need a little more spot putty here and there. After sanding the spot putty with 320 grit the cabinets looked pretty darn good. I then covered the entire cabinets with Bondo glazing and spot putty. After sanding down the DAP with 320 grit, hairline voids and small pinholes were exposed in the DAP. The pic with the cabinets looking white is after the DAP. The CNC router did a great job, but it was not perfect. Since the cabinets are stacked HDF( I wrongly called the HDF, MDF in my opening post), so this was not avoidable when you are dealing with a joint every 3/4". After sanding the cabinets with 120 grit, I covered the entire cabinets with DAP premium wood filler. Many hours were spent on this step, as I learned my lesson on my prototype where every imperfection was magnified after painting.
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